A greasy bacon egg and cheese muffin from the corner store promises you a start to a great day. Wind has been blowing hard for the past two days with tons of rain. Polly picks me up in his little ol toyota and were off to hunt down some chop. Pull down to this little beach break spot in Wurtulla, not a single person out and rippable nugs everywhere with sneaky barrels here and there. Had a near to perfect session. Waves started crapping out so we packed up and headed a little north to find some shelter from the wind. We found a perfect clean wave at a spot called Pin Cushion. A marathon session was ON. Well that only lasted so long. . . Got the fin to my eye, hard enough for the fin to crack. First thought I lost my left eye, couldn't see a thing. Went to the hospital, got all glued and bandaged up, and the doctor sent me away saying that i was a very lucky man for having such quick reflexes to save my eyeball by millimeters. But overall the day was a win, scored one of the best left hand barrels of my life for the books.
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